Things Beginning Frame Quilters Should Have When Starting...

Earlier in the week, I posted about the things beginning frame quilters should KNOW when starting, and this is the followup on the things you should have.  That post was pretty long, but I hope it was helpful.  This post is just as long, but I hope just as helpful.  :)

I am one of those people who doesn't really understand the concept of delayed gratification.  If I need or want something, I'll usually buy it, especially if it's under $100.  So I'll try my best to pare down the list to things you really should have.  Actually, it might be better for me to just explain why I think you should have it, and then you can decide for yourself if you need it or to what extent.  Ready?

Note: If I post a link, it's mostly me just doing an internet search or pointing you to the place where I bought something.  I don't get paid from these links nor is it necessarily an endorsement of that product or site.  I think if you don't know what you're looking for it can help if someone shows you!

• Marked Leaders.  If your machine doesn't come with them, buy them marked.  This helps you to insure your quilt is centered on the frame and you are rolling it on straight using the reference lines. It doesn't matter what company they are from as long as they fit your frame.
• Zippers or Red Snappers.  These products help you load your quilts more efficiently.  They also save you from the inevitable stabbings and backaches you'd get from always pinning your quilts to the leaders.  Some people buy extra leaders, but I think you should leave your leaders on the machine and protect them from wear & tear.  I personally use the zippers as I can prepare several quilts in advance sitting in front of the TV, and they allow me to swap out quilts mid-project if I need to substitute a different project on the frame (or heaven forbid, do extensive ripping.)
• Extra Bobbin Case.  This you should probably get from your machine manufacturer.  I use a lot of different threads, so I wanted a bobbin case for my "regular" thread, and another case that would get constant adjustments from using specialty threads.  These can be pricey so it might be something you get later when you feel like experimenting.
• Extra Bobbins.  Your machine probably uses special metal bobbins.  Don't cheap out on these.  A poorly made bobbin makes a poorly wound bobbin, which leads to nothing but tension troubles.  If you're using "L" bobbins, you'll need probably 3-4 for each project at a minimum; for "M" bobbins maybe you'll only need 1-2.  When I had my Mega Quilter I had about 25 bobbins, and have the same amount for Darcy.  I could keep several pre-wound with a "regular" neutral, and have extras for when I wanted different colors.  If you end up with lots of partial bobbins, don't unwind them or use them in another project (unless you just like having to stop quilting after 5 minutes to change the bobbin!)  I substitute these partial bobbins as the top thread for when I'm piecing a project.  That way the thread isn't wasted.
• GREAT Thread.  Ok, here I make no bones about endorsing this supplier.  Superior Thread is just that - superior.  I swear by this thread; I love the colors, I love the way it quilts, and the price is pretty reasonable.  If you have a true mid-arm it should be able to handle cones, but if not, spools are fine too. This company has tried their threads on lots of different machines and so they have the experience to help you troubleshoot issues & recommend specific settings for a lot of machines.  Even if you don't buy their thread the resources on their site are extensive & I highly recommend reading it.  With that said... your machine should be capable of running anything, unless the thread is poor quality.  Variegated threads are nice, but you'll get way more mileage out of a nice selection of neutrals.  By neutrals I mean - a creamy white, a dusky lavender, a nice copper, and a medium grey.  When all else fails you can usually turn to these colors as a standby when you don't have anything else that seems to fit.  If you're not sure about a color, unspool several yards of it onto the quilt - you can tell what will look nice.  Make sure you unspool across all the colors in the quilt if you have a lot of contrast.  :)  Eventually you'll add to your thread collection; a set of color cards for whatever thread you're buying is a great investment.
• A couple of good pantographs.  If you have a machine with a 9" throat, stick with designs 5" or less.  You'd be surprised at how much space you lose in the throat as your quilt advances.  A nice meander pattern, something with straight lines, and something with a mix of curves and lines.  If nothing else, these designs can help you get used to moving the machine. Just search the internet for "quilting pantographs" and you'll find lots of sites with cool designs.  Leave the beautiful, intricate, tiny designs for when you've got more quilting hours under your belt.
• A stitch regulator. If your machine doesn't have one, see if there's an aftermarket one that will fit your machine.  Regulating your own stitches takes practice, and I HIGHLY recommend that you learn, but for the times when you just want to get 'er done, this can be a great tool.  Also if you dream of doing ruler work, it's almost a requirement.  :)
• Extra needles.  You're going to be changing needles a lot more often than you do on your regular home machine.  You'll likely change needles every project, sometimes more than once during a project!  If you're doing a baby quilt, you can probably do 2 quilts per needle, but if you're doing a queen or king, you could go through 2-4 needles.  Don't skimp on these.  Needles take lots of abuse at high speeds, and you need your needle sharp and straight.  I have probably 200 needles right now.  It sounds like a lot but I've gone through a whole pack of 10 on 6 quilts.  Don't get 200 of the same size; I probably have 100 needles in the size I use most, and the other 100 are divided amongst other sizes so I can accommodate different thread weights.  Depending on your machine, you either need "home" needles (flat on one side at the top) or "industrial" needles (completely round at the top.)  Know which type your machine uses and only buy those; these needles are NOT interchangeable.
• 120" measuring tape.  Trust me; you're going to forget to measure something, leave your measuring tape in a room where you are not at, or not be able to find it.  Get a measuring tape that stays with your machine.  As you advance the quilt, you can check that you're not stretching it width-wise & it's staying square.
• Lightweight Spring Scissors.  I have 3 pair of these, and they are all hung on my machine at various locations using repositionable hooks.  You could also put them on a lanyard but I found that I was always stabbing myself a lot.  You always need a pair of scissors, and they are never where you want them to be, so just get a few pair and be done.  Get in the habit of returning them back to the hook so you don't forget them on the quilt & run them over.  I especially like these scissors because I don't have to awkwardly get my fingers in & out of a hole - just press them closed & release.  I think these are also called embroidery snips.
• A carpenter's level.  You need to make sure your frame is perfectly level.  My frame sits on carpet, and it took several weeks for it to settle into position.  Your machine should ride freely on the rails in both directions with a gentle push.  It should slowly come to a stop, and not move once it does. If it stops abruptly, rolls back in the other direction, or doesn't go very far when you give it a push, your machine might be out of level.  4' is a good length, get one that's not going to twist out of shape.
• Clamps for the Wheels.  If your machine does not come with channel locks, you should get a couple of clamps for your wheels or track to keep the machine from moving.  You can buy clamps from any home improvement store - just make sure they are padded, clamp firmly but not so tightly that you'll mar the wheels or your frame. It's hard to say what kind of clamps because it depends on where you would be able to clamp the machine, but I can tell you - it's great being able to know for certain that you have a straight line for basting your quilt to keep it square.
• A batting assortment.  In all my batting experimentation, I'm coming to enjoy quilting with a particular type of batting.  But I wouldn't have come to that conclusion unless I'd tried a bunch of different ones first.  Batting by the yard is more economical than batting in a package (because you can cut to the right length or width.)  Don't buy a 30 yard roll of anything unless you're super-sure you'll love using it on the frame. Some battings that are fine on a tabletop machine are just horrid for frame quilting.  Better to find that out with a minimum investment.  My batting assortment is over the top so I wouldn't recommend anyone do what I did unless you're planning to do long arm quilting as a business like me.

That's all I can think of right now!  Maybe other frame quilters will chime in with the things I forgot, but I think this is a pretty good list.

To endless possibilities,

Ebony